SCROG—short for Screen of Green—is one of the most effective ways to turn a few cannabis plants into a wide, even canopy of bud sites. Done right, it helps you manage stretch, improve light penetration, and keep your flowering tops in the “sweet spot” under your grow light. In this guide, you’ll learn exactly how to set up a SCROG net, when to start tucking, when to flip to flower, and how to avoid the mistakes that lead to tangled branches and uneven buds.
Adult educational content. Grow only where legal and permitted.
What Is SCROG (Screen of Green)?
SCROG is a training method where you use a net/screen to guide branches horizontally, creating a flat, uniform canopy. Instead of letting one main cola dominate, you spread growth across many tops—so more bud sites receive strong, consistent light.
When SCROG works best
- Indoor grows with limited height
- Fewer plants (but you want a full canopy)
- Photoperiod strains where you control veg time
- Stretchy genetics that benefit from canopy control
When SCROG is not ideal
- If you need to move plants often (SCROG “locks” them in place)
- If you’re doing frequent room resets and want fast turnaround
- If your environment tends to run humid and you don’t have strong airflow (dense canopies need great ventilation)
SCROG vs SOG: What’s the Difference?
SCROG spreads out fewer, larger plants under a screen, while SOG (Sea of Green) packs many small plants tightly together and flowers them earlier. SCROG is about building an even canopy; SOG is about speed and plant count.
SCROG Setup: What You Need
1) A net or screen
- Net hole size: 2"–4" squares (smaller = more control; larger = easier access)
- Material: trellis netting, soft garden wire screen, or rigid mesh
2) A stable frame
Your screen should be taut and secure. A wobbly net makes training frustrating and can stress branches. Many growers build a simple PVC frame or use tent poles/side rails to anchor the net.
3) Strong airflow
SCROG canopies get dense. Use oscillating fans and maintain good exhaust/intake so humidity doesn’t build up under the screen.
4) Basic training tools
- Soft plant ties (for gentle positioning)
- Clean scissors/pruners (for selective pruning)
- Optional: garden stakes to support heavy tops later in bloom
Where to Place the SCROG Net
Recommended screen height (general rule)
- Small/medium plants: 8"–12" above the pot surface
- Larger plants/long veg: 12"–18" above the pot surface
The goal is to start training once branches can reach the screen comfortably—without forcing hard bends too early.
How to SCROG Cannabis: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Veg until you have enough branching
SCROG is easiest when your plant has multiple strong branches. Many growers top once (or more) in veg to create extra main shoots, then begin training those shoots outward.
Step 2: Introduce the net and start “tucking”
As branches grow through the net, gently guide them sideways into the next square (“tuck” them under the screen). This turns vertical growth into horizontal growth and spreads tops across your footprint.
- Go slow: bend gradually to avoid snapping
- Train daily (or every 1–2 days): SCROG works best with frequent small adjustments
- Chase empty squares: move tips toward open areas to level the canopy
Step 3: Keep the canopy even
The “win condition” is a flat top layer where many tips sit at the same height. If one branch races ahead, tuck it farther out or redirect it to a new square so slower branches can catch up.
Step 4: Flip to flower at the right time
A common timing rule is to flip when your screen is about 60–80% full. Most photoperiod plants will stretch in early flower and fill the remaining space.
Step 5: Continue tucking during the stretch
For the first ~2 weeks of flowering (sometimes up to week 3), keep tucking fast-growing tips to maintain a level canopy. Once stretch slows and flower sites set, stop heavy training and let tops rise slightly above the screen.
Step 6: Clean up the undergrowth (lollipopping)
Growth below the screen that won’t receive good light usually becomes popcorn buds. Selectively remove weak lower shoots and shaded growth so the plant focuses on the productive tops above the net.
Step 7: Light defoliation for airflow (not “strip-mining”)
Remove only the leaves that block multiple bud sites or trap humidity. The goal is better light exposure and airflow—not a bare plant.
Step 8: Support heavy colas later in bloom
As buds gain weight, the screen helps, but some tops may still lean. Add gentle ties or secondary support if needed.
Common SCROG Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
Mistake 1: Flipping too late
If you veg too long, you can end up with an overfilled, tangled canopy that’s hard to manage. Flip earlier and rely on stretch to finish the fill.
Mistake 2: Not training often enough
Waiting a week between adjustments usually leads to uneven tops. Small, frequent tucks keep everything balanced.
Mistake 3: Poor airflow under the screen
Dense canopies can trap moisture. Keep airflow moving above and below the net to reduce humidity pockets.
Mistake 4: Over-defoliation
Stripping too many leaves can slow growth and reduce flower-building energy. Remove blockers strategically and keep the plant “powered.”
Mistake 5: Using autos like photoperiods
Autoflowers can be trained gently, but they have a fixed timeline. If you SCROG autos, keep it simple—early LST, minimal stress, and no long recovery events.
SCROG FAQ
How many plants should I SCROG?
Many growers SCROG 1–4 plants depending on tent size and desired veg time. Fewer plants usually means a longer veg to fill the net.
Do I need to top for SCROG?
Not required, but topping can help create more main branches and speed up screen coverage. If you top, do it in veg and allow recovery.
When do I stop tucking?
Usually after the stretch phase (often around week 2 of flower, sometimes week 3). After that, let flower sites stack above the canopy.